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Siena - The great cathedral that could have been

Feb 11, 2011  ·  1 Comment

When you visit Siena, Italy, you will visit the Duomo of Siena. That is a given. If you don't, you will probably be the first visitor to Siena since the 14th century not to. But what about the cathedral that isn't there?

Siena's magnificent cathedral

Siena's magnificent cathedral today. This would have been just a small part of the larger church they envisioned.

On the eastern side of the current church, lies what was meant to be the greatest cathedral in all of Europe. In 1339, the city of Siena was powerful and prosperous, and the city fathers launched this hugely ambitious plan. When completed, the Duomo Nuovo was going to dwarf the cathedral that stands today. In fact, it would have dwarfed St. Peter's in Rome, and every other church in the world!

Then the Black Plague swept through the town in 1348, killing up to 80% of the city's inhabitants. Along with this tragic loss of life, the dreams of the grandiose cathedral were swept away.  It remains unfinished to this day.

To imagine what the Duomo Nuovo would have been like, look at the current cathedral, and picture a much larger church intersecting this one at right angles. The plan was that the current building would form the transepts of the Duomo Nuovo. What you see now would have been just the short part of the cross-shaped building.

You can walk outside the cathedral, and get a better feel for this. On the eastern side of the church, on Piazza Jacopo della Quercia, you can see outlines on the ground of where this was meant to stand. It's quite astounding to see the scale of this, and imagine how much work would have gone into creating it.

Wander through the magnificent Duomo of Santa Maria dell'Assunta that stands today and imagine it on a grander scale - if you can. No doubt the same exquisitely inlaid marble floor would have been extended, but instead of a mere 52 panels depicting Biblical and historical scenes, there would be hundreds.

Scene from the elaborate marble designs on cathedral floor

Part of the Slaughter of the Innocents, one of the scenes done in marble on the cathedral floor

The black and white striped theme of the walls and pillars of the cathedral's interior would have extended into the new cathedral, and the blue vaults, decorated with gold stars would have adorned the Duomo Nuovo as well. Great sculptors like Giovanni Pisano (who helped his father, Nicola create the pulpit in the existing cathedral) and Donatello, whose statue of John the Baptist adorns a chapel in the cathedral would have contributed to the new duomo's splendor.

Remnants of the planned grand cathedral

Remnants of the planned grand cathedral

Building a cathedral is a process that can go on for hundreds of years. So after the Black Plague, why didn't they go back to work on the Duomo Nuovo?

It was probably because it was an overly ambitious project in the first place, that would have required immense amounts of money, manpower, and skilled artisans. It was also begun as kind of a rush job (as much as you can rush an enormous, elaborate, stone building like that!) They spent nine years on it, and much of the construction work they did in that time was unsound and eventually collapsed.

Instead of starting over on the huge cathedral, a wiser decision was made, and they continued to improve the current Duomo of Santa Maria dell'Assunta instead.

That marble floor, for instance, was developed for over 200 years, with 40 different artists contributing to it. The older panels, including the famous Wheel of Fortune and the She Wolf of Siena were actually graffiti, created by chiseling out the marble and filling the spaces with bitumen. Later on, in the 15th and early 16th centuries, under the watchful and capable eye of Alberto Aringhieri, more skilled artists and artisans completed the floor. The most renowned of these, Massacre of the Innocents, by Matteo di Giovanni, was completed in 1482 - ten years before Columbus sailed to America.

All that remains of the Duomo Nuovo, the most ambitious architectural project of the 14th century, are some markings on the pavement, a few columns and arches, and a magnificent door to the Baptistry staircase. The great cathedral that Could Have Been, will never be.

Fortunately, the great cathedral that IS, the Duomo of Siena, remains one of the most stunning examples of Gothic architecture in all of Italy.

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→ 1 Comment Categories: architecture · history · siena · tuscany
Photo credit:   ho vista nina volare (flickr)

10 Top Things to Do in Tuscany, Italy

Jun 5, 2010  ·  9 Comments

If you're planning a trip to Tuscany, then congratulations on making a good choice!  Located towards the middle of the country, Tuscany is a gorgeous area of Italy with olive groves and magnificent wild beauty.  It also has outstanding ancient towns filled with Renaissance art for you to admire.  So what are our top ten things to do in Tuscany?

1.  See the Masters In Florence Museums

The Uffizi Gallery is a world famous art museum.  Here you can feast your eyes on hundreds of paintings by Renaissance masters.  Artists include Giotto, Botticelli, Raphael, Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci. Then head over to the Accademia where you'll find Michelangelo's statue of David - one of the most famous sculptures in the world.

2. Go Wine Tasting In Chianti

Just about everyone has heard of Chianti wine, and now you can taste the red wine for yourself from the local vineyards in the region. If you don't want to drive from vineyard to vineyard, you could go on an organized wine tasting tour.  Even if you're not so keen on wine, it's a gorgeous area to explore.

Vineyards of Chianti region

Rolling vineyards of the Chianti region

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3.  Stroll Around Siena

Siena is a well known town dating from medieval times.  One of its most popular piazzas is the Piazza del Campo where you can sit down, relax, and enjoy a glass of wine or cup of coffee and indulge in people watching.  If you feel energetic, you can climb to the top of the bell tower for breathtaking views of the surrounding area.

4.  Visit Lucca

Lucca is a Tuscan town dating from 180BC.  Founded by the Romans, there's a 1900 year old amphitheater to explore and a sixteenth century brick wall that encloses the city center.  If you need some exercises, you can walk along the four kilometer long brick wall.

5.  Take A Tuscan Cooking Class

If you'd like to know how to make authentic Tuscan dishes, then why not take a cooking class in Tuscany?  There are quite a few different cooking schools in the region that offer anything from one day courses to intense week long courses with accommodation included.

6.  Count The Tower Houses At San Gimignano

This town is 1,000 years old and is perched on a hill.  Only 14 tower houses are left standing today which were a sign of wealth in ancient times.  San Gimignano features churches and museums, as well as the Fortress of Montestaffoli.

Leaning tower of Pisa

Leaning tower - famous for its failings

7. Visit The Leaning Tower Of Pisa

You can see for yourself the world famous Leaning Tower of Pisa. The town of Pisa is approximately 50 miles from Florence and is easily reached by train if you don't have a car. In recent years the tower has undergone restoration work to reduce its lean as it was becoming too pronounced, but you can still see the lean it is famous for.

8. Explore the Maremma Region

The Maremma region is located in south-western Tuscany. This region boasts hills, mountains and the ocean. You can indulge in pleasures such as eating simple Italian food and tasting the wines of this region. Or if you feel like taking a dip, why not go to the thermal baths of Saturnia?

9.  Take An Art Class

Be inspired by the same landscape as the Italian masters were when you take a Tuscan art class.  Not only can you take a class in painting, but lessons in pottery, sculpture, drawing, ceramics and mosaics are also offered at the various art schools in the region.  If you want to be pampered while you learn, you can book an all-inclusive course where meals, activities (as well as lessons) and accommodation are all included.

10.  Explore Cortona

If you've read Under the Tuscan Sun by Frances Mayes, then you may be familiar with Cortona.  The Etruscans first lived here centuries ago and today it's a town that offers visitors a feast of history and art.

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Tuscany is wonderful, and after you visit, you'll see why Frances Mayes went through all that work to stay here.  Find all the best travel clothing and accessories, and enjoy your trip to Tuscany! :-)
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→ 9 Comments Categories: florence · pisa · tuscany
Photo credit:   Leaning tower: HarshLight (flickr), Chianti: Adventurous Wench

Florence, Italy: Favorite things about Florence

Dec 2, 2008  ·  7 Comments

On my honeymoon, my new husband and I stayed in a tiny mountain town about 40 minutes north of Florence by train. We were enchanted with the town-we would have liked to stay permanently! However, one of the wonderful people we met there was a native of Florence, and to her, the little mountain town could never compare to the city she was born in. She told us she cried when she had to move away, even though she didn’t move very far.

As much as we loved the mountain scenery, I can definitely see why she felt that way. Florence is magical -- a jewel of a city. Even when it’s is crowded with tourists, the blend of Italian Renaissance beauty, modern conveniences, excellent food and friendly people is something you have to experience to understand. There is so much to see and do in the city that it can be hard to pin down a doable itinerary. With that in mind, here are 10 places you absolutely must visit while you are there!

  • Galleria dell'Accademia- Although you will find replicas of Michelangelo’s David in other places around town, this is the home of the one and only original sculpture. The statue depicts David holding the stone, contemplating his move against the giant Goliath. Every muscle is carved with such fluid grace that you almost expect the statue to start moving. His calm, thoughtful expression and Olympian physique embodies the Renaissance belief in human potential. The Galleria dell’Accademia always has a line to get inside. Although it generally moves much faster than the line for the Uffizi, it’s still best to get tickets in advance if possible.  Find museum tickets here...
  • Duomo- The Duomo is on every Florentine visitor’s itinerary for several reasons. The building itself is simply beautiful-the facade is embellished with alternating colors of local limestone. The baptistery outside features the "Gates of Paradise" by Ghiberti-a fabulous example of bronze relief sculpture. Then, of course, there is the dome-a feat of engineering that helped put Florence on the map during the Renaissance. Brave the long lines and the steep steps to climb the stairs to the top-you'll be glad you did! The views of the city are breathtaking. While you climb, make sure to check out the fresco of the last judgment-the demons of hell have some very interesting punishments for sinners that involve flaming sticks…I won’t go into anymore detail than that in order to keep this post rated PG!
    Ponte Vecchio, with shops hanging off the side

    Ponte Vecchio, with shops along the sides

  • Ponte Vecchio- This charming bridge across the Arno dates to 1345. The shops along the bridge have housed goldsmiths and jewelers ever since 1593, when Ferdinand di Medici threw out the more “common” vendors. As you would expect from such a long tradition, these shops are home to some incredible artisans who produce some amazing jewelry. Even if you can’t afford to buy, window shopping is definitely worth it! Cost: Free
  • Uffizi- The Palazzo degli Uffizi houses a superb collection of paintings, featuring work by artists such as Michelangelo, Botticelli, Titian, Caravaggio, Rembrandt, della Francesca, and many others. Also, unless you really, really like the idea of spending half of a vacation day in line, buy tickets ahead of time! What appears to be a relatively short line from outside can and will end up taking hours to go through. It costs a few Euro more to book in advance, but it's well worth it! Find museum tickets here...
  • Piazza della Republica- This piazza marks the site of an old Roman forum, but the current neoclassical construction dates back to 1865. Studded with caffes, it’s a great place to grab a bite to eat. Also, it borders the Mercato Nuovo, home of the “Porcellino.” Put in a coin in this statue’s mouth, and if it falls through the grate below, the legend says you will have good luck.
  • Bargello- The David may be the most famous Renaissance sculpture in Florence, but it’s certainly not the only one. The Bargello has work by Donatello, Michelangelo and Cellini, among others.
  • Brancacci Chapel- Located in the cathedral of Santa Maria del Carmine, this chapel features frescoes by Giotto and Masaccio that demonstrate the new techniques of the Italian Renaissance: perspective and chiaroscuro, or shading. To see the difference, compare the work by Giotto and Masaccio to older work by Cimabue.
  • Vivoli- You’ve never truly experienced ice cream until you've had gelato! Gelato is richer, thicker, and simply better than its American counterpart. If you've climbed to the top of the Duomo, you can even indulge guilt-free! Address: Via Isole delle Stinche 7r.  This shop is considered by many to have the best gelato in Florence. Why not go and judge for yourself?

There's a lot more in Florence, too.  So much that you'll never have time to see it all!  Even so, you might want to take a break from the city and visit the nearby hill town of Fiesole.  It makes a nice variation from the city hustle and bustle.

You can also visit Florence as part of a larger trip through Tuscany. One advantage is that a tour can get you out to see the countryside and small towns in addition to Florence itself, like this women's trip to Tuscany. You'll find plenty of options for visiting this scenic area - it's beautiful!

Above all, whatever else you do...  Make sure to leave yourself some time for just strolling along the banks of the Arno, and relaxing at sidewalk caffes. Those leisurely relaxing moments can be the most enjoyable of all! :-)

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Photo credit:   Deanna Keahey