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How to Spend an Un-Touristy Afternoon in Rome

Fri, Sep 3, 2010 By 7 Comments

If you’ve got a drop of Western blood in you, something in Roman history has deeply affected your life. Even if it’s just the fact that all of our languages have their roots in Latin, Rome pulls at our common heartstrings. Rome doesn’t disappoint, either. All the Major Attractions are Major for a reason.

But what if you’re in denial about being a tourist in Rome? What if you just want to get away from the crowds, if only in your head, and go for a stroll? Here’s a list of 5 things to see and do in Rome that aren’t too touristy – or at least you can do them in an un-touristy way! :-)

1) Go to the Spanish Steps: Yes, the Spanish Steps in Rome are a tourist trap and you don’t particularly want to visit a tourist trap.  They’re often thronged with tourists (though your best bet is a super-hot sunny afternoon or a cold, rainy day).  But whatever the weather, you really do want to walk up this magnificent staircase created in the 18th Century by Francesco Di Sanctis at the behest of Pope Innocent XII. At the foot of the steps on your right is the Keats/Shelley House, so that can be your un-touristy excuse for going there.  Proceed to Number Two:

Spanish steps in Rome

To avoid crowds, try the Spanish Steps on a hot & sunny, or cold & rainy day

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2) Visit the Place Where Keats Died: John Keats was the most romantic of the Romantic Poets, along with Percy Blythe Shelley, also after whom the Keats/Shelley House is named. Keats died in this house at the age of 25. Like James Dean, he died young. While you’re there, grab a copy of Keats’ poetry to stick in your hip pocket and pull out when you’re sipping a cappuccino at the cafe we’ll be visiting shortly.

When you exit the Keats/Shelley Memorial House, you’ll be at the Spanish Steps, so you may as well climb them. Sit down somewhere about the halfway mark and spare a thought for Keats. Unlike James Dean, he didn’t die a spectacular death behind the wheel of a Porsche. He died of Consumption – a slow and painful death. Towards the end, he was unable to take in the sites you’re seeing now.

3) Trinita dei Monti: As you ascend the steps, you might as well take some pictures of the Trinita dei Monti, even though rumor has it that there are more postcards of this beautiful chapel than of any other site in Rome. Originally built in the early 1500s, it is partly the reason why the Steps were built in the first place.

The other part of the reason was to celebrate the peace between France and Italy. France funded the Steps (completed around 1725), which lead to the historically French area surrounding the church. After you’ve had a look around inside, retrace your steps back down the Steps and try to figure out why they call them the Spanish Steps.

 

Cappuccino

Cappuccino with your poetry?

4) Antico Caffe Greco: Now that you’ve got your copy of Keats’ poetry, you won’t be a typical tourist when you enter the Antico Caffe Greco – you’ll be a literati, visiting the cafe where literary giants like Keats, Byron, Goethe and Stendahl hung out, to name just a few.

Ignore the callous tourists, take a seat at the bar and soak up the palpable atmosphere of this marvelously decorated cafe. Built in 1760, it is said to be the third oldest cafe in the world. Everything is pricey here, but the coffee is superb and the pastries are delicious. Now is the time to pull your book of poetry out of your pocket and start reading.

5) Window shop like the wealthy: Because you’re at the Caffe Greco, you’re also on Via dei Condotti, one of the most upmarket streets in Rome. You may as well stroll down this street while you’re in the area, and rub elbows with the fashionistas as you check out the latest from Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Bvlgari.

There, now you’ve just managed to spend a very enjoyable afternoon in one of Rome’s most touristy areas without having to feel like a common tourist. Congratulations!

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When you’re in Rome, of course you want to visit all the major sites – who could miss the Coliseum or St. Peter’s? It’s worth your while to experience some of the lesser-known sights, too. Give yourself a bit more time in an area, so you can absorb the essence of one little corner of Rome. Happy travels!
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Rome, Italy – Quick Guide to Visiting St. Peter’s Basilica

Tue, Jul 6, 2010 By 6 Comments
As one of the world’s most sacred sites and colossal architectural monuments, visiting St. Peter’s Basilica is an awesome experience. It can also be an overwhelming one. What are the most unmissable sights? How do you find your way around? How do you navigate through the crowds of other visitors who flock here every day? Hopefully, this quick guide to visiting St. Peter’s will at least give you a start to what will no doubt be an amazing journey.

St. Peter’s – The Grand Exterior and Piazza

If you want to avoid the crowds, get to St. Peter’s as early in the morning as possible, preferably just before 7am, when the Basilica opens. You want to view the colossal Dome of St. Peter’s with as few distractions as possible, because it is an overwhelming construction. Designed by Michelangelo and completed by Giacomo della Porta, the Dome is over 40 meters (130 feet) in diameter and rises to 120 meters (nearly 400 feet) off the floor.

You arrive first at St. Peter’s Square, the grand piazza in front of the basilica. In the center of the piazza stands the 25.5 meter (80 feet) tall obelisk. This is the oldest artifact on the grounds and dates from 13th Century BC. Egypt. It was originally brought to Rome in the 1st Century and stood in Nero’s Circus until it was moved to St. Peter’s Square in 1585.

St. Peter's Basilica in Rome

Front of St. Peter's, seen from the Piazza

After exploring the piazza, and taking pictures of the facade of St. Peters, you’ll be ready to head inside. Be prepared to go through a security line before you get to the front doors, though – it’s almost like being at the airport. Once you’ve cleared security, you can proceed past the enormous statues of St. Peter and St. Paul that stand in front of the stairs, and enter the Basilica. The church looks big from the outside, but once you get inside, it’s almost overwhelming!

St. Peter’s – The Art-Filled Interior

Inside St. Peter's Basilica

Inside St. Peter's Basilica

Proceeding into the interior, you will be treated to some of the most magnificent sculptures in history. As you walk towards the right aisle, look for the statue of St. Peter. Until recently, its sculptor was disputed, but it is now generally accepted that Arnolfo di Cambio created this magnificent sculpture in the 13th century. Some still believe that it has much earlier origins, though – as early as the 5th Century.

You will then continue down the right aisle, where you will see one of the most celebrated sculptures ever created – Michelangelo’s Pieta. You will certainly have seen photographs of it in the past, but the real thing is breathtaking.

Amongst all the statues of the saints and apostles, there is one relic that is not a work of art, but the actual remains of Pope John XXIII. The Pope died in 1963, but when his body was exhumed in 2001, it was discovered that his remains had not decayed. They were placed in a glass case and can be viewed in the right transept, beneath the altar of St. Jerome.

You will then come to Bernini’s Baldacchino. This magnificent structure made of 927 tons of bronze is the canopy covering the Papal altar and St. Peter’s relics. There are so many stunning examples of art and architecture in here that it is hard to single out just one, but the Cathedra of St. Peter, designed by Bernini in 1666 is particularly impressive. You will then progress down the left transept and the left aisle before exiting the Basilica.

St. Peter’s – The View from the Dome

Before you leave St. Peters, though, you’ll definitely want to head up to the roof. Some visitors do this first, but it is a wonderful way to finish off your tour. You can either climb the stairs or take an elevator to the first level roof, where you can stand with the statues of saints, and look out over Piazza San Pietro. Then the adventurous can climb the stairs around and around inside the curving dome, to the cupola right at the top. From here, all of Rome is spread out in front of you, and you can also look down into the manicured grounds of the Vatican.

View of the Piazza, the Obelisk, and Rome

View of the Piazza, the Obelisk, and Rome

You can also walk around part of the inside of the dome, looking down at the tiny visitors in the church below – this gives you a new appreciation for the size of this enormous basilica. Take a moment to try to absorb all the treasures you have just seen.

St. Peter’s Basilica is one of the most visited tourist sites in the world. With over 5 acres of floor space, it doesn’t lose its sense of spaciousness even when there are thousands of visitors inside. However, making that extra effort to visit it early in the morning pays off. You won’t be the only one there, but the lines will be shorter and you will be able to appreciate its wonders more fully.

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Eating in Rome, Italy – local specialties

Tue, Dec 9, 2008 By 16 Comments
Rome has long been recognized as one of the “culinary capitals” of the world. The city boasts too many restaurants to keep track of, and the majority of them are very good. Rome is a cosmopolitan city, with many different types of cuisine available. However, each region in Italy has its own distinctive style of cuisine, and Rome is no exception. No visit to Rome is truly complete without sampling some of the regional delicacies. So, instead of settling for generic “Italian” food, try some of these enticing local specialties!
Artichokes -- yumm!

Artichokes -- yumm!

  • Pasta amatriciana – There are several different regional variations on this dish, with each region claiming its own version is the “authentic” one. However, all pasta amatriciana dishes start with one key ingredient: guanciale, pig jowl that has been cured without smoke. American versions of this dish tend to substitute something else (bacon, ham, or pancetta) for the guanciale, as it is very difficult to obtain on this side of the pond. However, it’s the flavor of this particular cut of meat, with its rich, silky texture and succulent flavor, that makes the dish what it is. The “Roman” version of the dish includes tomatoes, pasta (usually spaghetti or bucatini), onions, and Pecorino cheese. The rich flavor of the pork combines with the tomatoes and the sharp, salty cheese to create a symphony of flavor.
  • Veal Saltimbocca alla Romana – Roughly translated, the name of this classic Roman dish means “jumps in the mouth.” Try it, and you’ll see why!  Tender veal slices are topped with slices of salty prosciutto, a type of Italian ham, and pungent, earthy fresh sage. Then, the veal is sautéed in butter and served topped with wine sauce.  One of my personal favorites! :-)
  • Stracciatella - This Italian version of egg-drop soup is popular in other regions of Italy, but it usually referred to outside of Rome as Stracciatella alla Romana to indicate its Roman origins. Stracciatella is a light and refreshing soup that consists of eggs beaten to a golden froth with either parmesan or pecorino cheese, and seasoned with salt, pepper and nutmeg. The eggs are poured into bubbling chicken broth and stirred, producing delicate swirls of cooked egg. The strands of egg resemble old rags floating in the broth. Since the Italian word for rags is straccetti (and the earlier root is from Italian stracciato, “torn apart”), this resemblence is what gives the dish its name.
  • Pasta Carbonara – The type of pasta used in this dish can vary-sometimes spaghetti, sometimes linguini, sometimes bucatini. However, the sauce is always the same-a heavenly mixture of guanciale, eggs, an aged cheese such as pecorino or parmesan, butter, and garlic. This dish is relatively simple to make-the pork is fried first, and then it is tossed along with the other ingredients into piping hot pasta, melting the cheese and cooking the eggs so that they coat the noodles. Partially because of its simplicity, it is thought to have been created by foresters working in the Apennine Mountains — the recipe could be easily cooked over charcoal fires, or carbonara. Another local legend states that it was invented for American soldiers after World War II, who puzzled local chefs by ordering eggs, bacon and spaghetti. Still another theory is that it got its name because the specks of bacon and pepper look like bits of charcoal. Whatever its origins, it’s great! And it proves that food doesn’t have to be complicated to be good.  Another of my all-time favorites — I try variations wherever I go!
  • Carciofi alla giudea – Romans love fresh artichokes, and this is one of the preferred ways of preparing them, a name that translates as “artichokes Jewish style”. The artichoke is first trimmed of all its spikes and tough outer leaves, then flattened between two bricks, battered and fried. The result? A tasty confection that resembles a deep-fried sunflower! The outer leaves are deliciously crispy, and the heart is soft, smooth, and flavorful.

Cooking the Roman WayWant to try these Roman dishes at home? Cooking the Roman Way: Authentic Recipes from the Home Cooks and Trattorias of Rome will have you cooking like a Roman in no time. (Of course, you still need to visit Rome, if only to make sure you’ve got those flavors exactly right!) :-)

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Rome, Italy: Some favorite things about Rome

Tue, Nov 18, 2008 By 8 Comments
Rome has endured for thousands of years-since 625 BC or perhaps even earlier. Today it’s the capital of Italy, but Rome was around long before Italy came to be! For many of these centuries, Rome and its inhabitants played a crucial role in world history.

Today, Rome is a cosmopolitan city, where modern life coexists next to ancient relics. No trip to Italy would be complete without spending some time here. There is so much to see and do here that if you have time, it’s great to devote at least a week to the city.  Even then, you won’t have time to see everything that this amazing city has to offer! Here are some of my favorite things about Rome.

View over the rooftops of Rome

View over the rooftops of Rome

  • History - Where else in the world do cars drive past the ruins of timeless monuments such as the Colosseum and the Forum? Over the centuries, so many new buildings have gone up on top of the old buildings that the city resembles an onion, with layers upon layers of history stacked on top of each other. To live, even temporarily, among such a lively and interesting mix of the ancient and the modern is a thrilling experience.
  • Vatican City - This stronghold of the Catholic Church contains St. Peter’s Basilica, the Vatican museums and the Sistine Chapel. Vatican City contains so many treasures that you should plan on spending an entire day looking around. Of course, Michelangelo’s masterpiece, the Sistine Chapel, is one of the highlights of the tour, especially since its restoration uncovered the dazzling colors that had been hiding under centuries of grime. Also, the Vatican City has its own postal service, which is much more reliable than the regular Italian post. Mail your postcards here!
  • People-watching – This is the unofficial Italian sport. Many Italians are very fashion and image-conscious. Of course, the whole point of getting dressed up and going out is to see and be seen. The best places for people-watching are the little sidewalk caffes that dot the streets. To get a better view, choose a seat that faces into an open piazza.
  • Ancient Ruins - Reminders of ancient Rome are everywhere, and one thing that becomes clear when you visit them is how much the ancient Romans seem to resemble us. For example, it’s easy to imagine watching a football game inside the Colosseum – although the ancient Romans enjoyed far bloodier sports than that! The Forum was the political center of ancient Rome, where the rich and powerful congregated.  Then there’s the Circus Maximus, site of great Roman chariot races.
  • Piazza di Spagna - This butterfly-shaped piazza is another great place to people-watch, and is a popular gathering place for tourists.. Of course, the main attraction is the imposing and majestic Spanish steps, that rise to connect the square to the elegant church above.
  • Il Tridente – This incredible, free open-air museum contains a treasure chest of paintings, architecture and sculpture. Many different eras are represented.  The museum contains everything from artifacts taken from Egypt by the Empire to art from notable Renaissance and Baroque artists, including Michelangelo, Raphael, and Bernini. Did I mention it’s free?
  • Shopping - If you have spending money, Rome is a great place to shop. You can get everything from high-fashion designer goods to flea market bargains, depending on where you go and what you are looking for. If you are looking for high-end goods, drop by some of the designer stores along the Spanish Steps. More of a wandering hippie? Travestere’s winding streets and outdoor markets are perfect. On Sundays, an eclectic mix of trash and treasure can be found at the Porta Portese, the Roman flea market.
  • The Food - What’s Rome without some marvelous Italian food?  Fortunately you’ll find restaurants and trattorias everywhere, happy to ply you with pasta and wine.  And after all that walking around the city, you don’t even have to feel guilty about that plate of rich Spaghetti Carbonara.  See more about Eating in Rome – Local food specialties.
  • Fountains of Rome – Rome’s many piazzas are decorated with fanciful fountains, each unique and beautiful, and each with its own colorful story. For example, if you toss a coin over your shoulder and it lands in the Trevi fountain, people say that you are guaranteed to return to Rome someday. At the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, Bernini’s animated sculptures appear to be shielding their eyes from the façade of a church designed by his arch-nemesis Borromini. :-)
  • The Crypt of the Capuchin Monks – The Capuchin crypt is the resting place of over 4,000 members of the Capuchin religious order. These monks believed that it was good for the soul to contemplate the body’s mortality.  So, instead of burying their deceased brethren, they arranged their bodies in tableaus meant to remind viewers of how fragile life is. They also used bones and other mummified body parts to create intricate decorations and cozy domestic crafts.  Imagine if Morticia Adams took over the Martha Stewart show, and you’ll get the idea.
  • Galleria Borghese – This jewel of a museum contains masterpieces by Bernini, Caravaggio, Giorgione, Botticelli and Rubens, other treasures by lesser known artists, and ancient Roman statuary. They won’t let you in unless you make reservations ahead of time.

There’s a lot more to Rome than this, but these will give you a great start on exploring this amazing city.  To explore a bit online and get the lay of the land, check out the Google Maps of Rome.  So much to see and do!

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Rome – Fun with antique photos

Wed, Jul 30, 2008 By 2 Comments
Fountain in Piazza Navona, Rome

Fountain in Piazza Navona, Rome

I found a fun post today over on Adventure is the Spice of Life. They have some antique photographs of Rome, which look at least 100 years old.

Yet considering their age, they also look remarkably like the same scenes would today. Given that many of the sights in Rome are well over a hundred years old, perhaps that shouldn’t be all that surprising. As long as you don’t get any cars or iPods in the picture, this scene in Piazza Navona probably hasn’t changed much in the past century.

But there’s more… a hidden side to it that you can actually make use of yourself! :-)

Catch the surprising conclusion, and news you can use, at:
Adventure is the Spice of Life — Rome: Eternal city 100 years ago = deja vu!

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Eternal memories of Rome

Sun, Jun 22, 2008 By 2 Comments
Memories are precious — my first memories of Rome certainly are.

I have a photo that was taken during my first trip to Rome, Italy. I’m sitting on the Spanish Steps, wearing a t-shirt with a famous Life Magazine photo — a nurse kissing a sailor on V-J Day. The word “PEACE” is written in capital letters on the front of my shirt. “Peaceful” is the word that describes how I felt on that day. This was Rome before the addition of McDonald’s and other Americanisms. This is the Rome I choose to remember.

Often, we’d prefer that our initial contact with a person or place remain unchanged. Strong emotions can be attached to first experiences, so these are often the most memorable. This is what we want to hold on to.

I was enroute to Perugia, where I would spend the summer studying Italian at the University for Foreigners, otherwise known as Universita per Stranieri. Traveling solo in the most sensual of cities, I was struck by a sudden sense of freedom and independence. It was both frightening and enticing. Even for a streetwise New Yorker, Rome could be challenging. Simply crossing the street from the Coliseum was an adventure!

Colosseum in Rome, ItalyThat said, the Coliseum is one of those “must see” sights of Rome. When I think of it, I see the thousands of cats that call this ancient amphitheater their home. For me, images of the architecture are vague, but the cats and the traffic around the Colloseum hold distinct places in the forefront of my memory.

The trick to visiting Rome involves understanding its paradoxes. The Eternal City is both frenetic and laissez-faire. Daily life moves at a fast past, but when it’s time for afternoon siesta, there’s a lull, and time for a rest. Spending an afternoon sipping espresso in Piazza Navona is just as much a part of the Rome experience as a visit to the Trevi Fountain. Meals are leisurely experiences. The Italians savor their food. After your evening meal, a passegiata, or evening walk is in order. This is one of the best Italian traditions. You get to people watch and burn calories at the same time!

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