Theo | Your Trip to Italy

The 7 Hills of Rome – Then and Now

Sat, Apr 16, 2011 By Theo 1 Comment

They say, “Rome wasn’t built in a day.” That’s putting it mildly.

According to legend, the city of Rome goes back to a time thousands of years ago, when Remus and Romulus, twin sons of Mars (the god of War), were raised by a wolf. Romulus made his home on what is now called Palatine Hill, while Remus chose to live on Aventine hill.

Over time, five other nearby hills became populated. Together, these make up the famed Seven Hills of Rome.

Romulus and Remus, with the wolf that raised them

The Seven Hills of Rome, in History

In recorded history, the first emperor of Rome, Augustus was born on Palatine Hill in 63 BC, making that address a very prestigious one indeed. Many other emperors followed suit and the ruins of many imperial buildings remain there to this day, most notably the palace of the Emperor Domitian.

While it is hard to compete with the pedigree of Palatine Hill, the other six hills also have long and distinguished histories. Capitoline Hill’s first claim to fame was as the location of temples of Jupiter, Juno and Minerva. In more “recent” times, the Roman senate got together there. In even more recent times, Michelangelo designed three magnificent palaces there. Today, the nearly “brand new” (inaugurated in 1734 by Pope Clement) Capitoline Museum, not far from the Piazza del Campidoglio, houses some of the greatest works of art in the world.

Ruined palaces on Palatine Hill

Bathing seems to have been a passion of the ancient Romans, if the Seven Hills of Rome are anything to go by. For example, the Baths of Diocletian are located close to Viminal Hill. Those go back to 306 AD. Later, the National Museum of Rome was built inside the enormous complex, as were two churches, San Bernardo and Santa Maria degli Angeli.

The Esquiline Hill is the largest of the Seven Hills. Nero, one of the less appealing Roman Emperors, called this hill home. Its previous history is even less appealing – it used to be a quasi town dump and was also a pauper’s graveyard. Aside from its unseemly past, this Hill is also where the Colosseum can be found. You won’t find Nero’s palace anymore, because the Colosseum was built on top of it. Oh, and of course there were baths – in this case the Baths of Trajan.

We mentioned above that Romulus chose to live on the Palatine Hill. His twin brother Remus chose Aventine Hill. Between the two hills, the Romans built Circus Maximus, which today is basically just an empty field, but used to be the site of exciting chariot races. In very recent times, the Knights of Malta Square, designed by the 18th century architect Giambattista Piranesi, was built on Aventine. One of the singular touches Piranesi added to this structure was the “Hole of Rome:” peer through this keyhole and see the dome of St. Peter’s.

And that leaves Caelian and Quirinal. Although it stands to reason that there were baths on Quirinal, no evidence of a bathhouse remains there. That the ancient Romans built their baths to last is evidenced by the fact that Caelian Hills Baths of Caracalla, although not currently functioning as a bathhouse, still remain as ruins. The massive scale of these baths (finished in 216 AD) have to be seen to be believed – it’s quite astonishing to wander through the ruins, and wander, and wander…

The Seven Hills of Rome, Today

“Time marches on,” as they say, and if you visit the Seven Hills of Rome today, you get the eerie feeling of living in several eras of time at once.

Opera at the Baths of Caracalla, Rome

At the Baths of Caracalla, for instance, you can sit on modern chairs under the stars and enjoy an amazing night out at the opera. The Colosseum has had a lighting makeover and shines like a jewel in the night.

All around these ancient sites, life goes on.While Maseratis and Ferraris have replaced chariots, Italian designer clothes and shoes have replaced togas and sandals, and modern spa resorts have replaced the ancient baths, Rome remains essentially the same – stylish, majestic, and rich in culture. No wonder they call it the “Eternal City.”

Filed Under: History Tagged With: augustus, baths, capitoline, circus maximus, diocletian, hill, History, nero, palatine, Rome, trajan

Siena – The great cathedral that could have been

Fri, Feb 11, 2011 By Theo 2 Comments

When you visit Siena, Italy, you will visit the Duomo of Siena. That is a given. If you don’t, you will probably be the first visitor to Siena since the 14th century not to. But what about the cathedral that isn’t there?

Siena's magnificent cathedral today. This would have been just a small part of the larger church they envisioned.

On the eastern side of the current church, lies what was meant to be the greatest cathedral in all of Europe. In 1339, the city of Siena was powerful and prosperous, and the city fathers launched this hugely ambitious plan. When completed, the Duomo Nuovo was going to dwarf the cathedral that stands today. In fact, it would have dwarfed St. Peter’s in Rome, and every other church in the world!

Then the Black Plague swept through the town in 1348, killing up to 80% of the city’s inhabitants. Along with this tragic loss of life, the dreams of the grandiose cathedral were swept away. It remains unfinished to this day.

To imagine what the Duomo Nuovo would have been like, look at the current cathedral, and picture a much larger church intersecting this one at right angles. The plan was that the current building would form the transepts of the Duomo Nuovo. What you see now would have been just the short part of the cross-shaped building.

You can walk outside the cathedral, and get a better feel for this. On the eastern side of the church, on Piazza Jacopo della Quercia, you can see outlines on the ground of where this was meant to stand. It’s quite astounding to see the scale of this, and imagine how much work would have gone into creating it.

Wander through the magnificent Duomo of Santa Maria dell’Assunta that stands today and imagine it on a grander scale – if you can. No doubt the same exquisitely inlaid marble floor would have been extended, but instead of a mere 52 panels depicting Biblical and historical scenes, there would be hundreds.

Scene from the elaborate marble designs on cathedral floor

Part of the Slaughter of the Innocents, one of the scenes done in marble on the cathedral floor

The black and white striped theme of the walls and pillars of the cathedral’s interior would have extended into the new cathedral, and the blue vaults, decorated with gold stars would have adorned the Duomo Nuovo as well. Great sculptors like Giovanni Pisano (who helped his father, Nicola create the pulpit in the existing cathedral) and Donatello, whose statue of John the Baptist adorns a chapel in the cathedral would have contributed to the new duomo’s splendor.

Remnants of the planned grand cathedral

Building a cathedral is a process that can go on for hundreds of years. So after the Black Plague, why didn’t they go back to work on the Duomo Nuovo?

It was probably because it was an overly ambitious project in the first place, that would have required immense amounts of money, manpower, and skilled artisans. It was also begun as kind of a rush job (as much as you can rush an enormous, elaborate, stone building like that!) They spent nine years on it, and much of the construction work they did in that time was unsound and eventually collapsed.

Instead of starting over on the huge cathedral, a wiser decision was made, and they continued to improve the current Duomo of Santa Maria dell’Assunta instead.

That marble floor, for instance, was developed for over 200 years, with 40 different artists contributing to it. The older panels, including the famous Wheel of Fortune and the She Wolf of Siena were actually graffiti, created by chiseling out the marble and filling the spaces with bitumen. Later on, in the 15th and early 16th centuries, under the watchful and capable eye of Alberto Aringhieri, more skilled artists and artisans completed the floor. The most renowned of these, Massacre of the Innocents, by Matteo di Giovanni, was completed in 1482 – ten years before Columbus sailed to America.

All that remains of the Duomo Nuovo, the most ambitious architectural project of the 14th century, are some markings on the pavement, a few columns and arches, and a magnificent door to the Baptistry staircase. The great cathedral that Could Have Been, will never be.

Fortunately, the great cathedral that IS, the Duomo of Siena, remains one of the most stunning examples of Gothic architecture in all of Italy.

Filed Under: Siena Tagged With: Architecture, cathedral, church, duomo, History, plague, Siena, Tuscany

Murano, Burano – When in Venice, Visit the Islands

Tue, Sep 21, 2010 By Theo 7 Comments

When you’re talking about visiting Venice, it’s tempting to focus on its world famous canals. It’s easy to understand why. From the birthplace of a pope, to the homes of Richard Wagner and Lord Byron, from the fictional homes of Othello and Desdemona, to Harry’s Bar (and the invention of the Bellini) – just one gondola ride down the Grand Canal has enough historic star power for a lifetime.

But no trip to Venice is truly complete without a visit to the tiny and beautiful lagoon islands.

Venice sits on a kind of archipelago, made up of many small islets, jutting into what’s known as the Venetian lagoon. The city of Venice is the largest settlement, but there are nearby islands, such as Murano, Burano, San Michele and Torcello, which are well worth experiencing.

Quiet canal on the small island of Burano

For centuries, Murano has been the home of the world’s best in stunning glassware. Burano is famous for its colorfully painted houses. San Michele is the final resting place of many famous names, and Torcello offers a once-in-a-lifetime look into the city’s past. Each island can be reached by waterbus, or vaporetto, and is just a short ride from Venice.

Murano

Murano is famous for blown glass

Murano is known as the “glass island”, because of its centuries-old glass production. The glass produced here is colorful and exquisite, and has been sought after around the world since the ninth century.

When you visit Murano, you can see the famous glass kilns lined up, and several are open to the public, so you can walk in and watch glass blowers creating their art. One of the oldest glassworks is Venini, whose works can be seen in museums around the world. If you want to learn more about the venerable tradition and see some wonderful historic pieces, check out the Glass Museum. Of course, no visit would be complete without out picking up a few stunning souvenirs of your own!

Burano
While Murano built an international reputation for its glass-making, neighboring Burano is famous for its lace work. The delicate pieces of art have been made here since the sixteenth century, and of course, there is a Lace Museum to find out how it’s done. Burano is the prettiest of the lagoon islands, with all of its houses painted in vibrant blues, yellows, purples and greens. Make sure to visit a bakery and sample the local bussolai burnanelli, light and delicious round butter biscuits.

Small shrine on Torcello

Torcello
Torcello has an altogether different feel. In the 10th century, nearly 10,000 people lived and worked on the island. Today, it’s home to only 20 people, but the ruins of the old buildings, churches and homes are still there, crumbling and overgrown. Its unique charm attracted Ernest Hemingway in the 1940s, and you can still have dinner at his favorite restaurant, Locanda Cipriani.

San Michele
San Michele also offers an interesting glimpse into the region’s past. As you walk through the walled cemetery, you can see the graves of Igor Stravinsky and Ezra Pound, among thousands of others.

For centuries, Venice has attracted visitors from around the world with its unique architecture and city planning. When it’s your turn to experience this incredible city, make sure to look past the obvious, and take the time to visit the lagoon islands for a truly wonderful glimpse into the region’s varied and picturesque past.

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When you’re planning your trip to Venice, you also need to decide what to take. Check out Adventurous Wench for an extensive selection of travel clothing, travel purses, travel accessories and more.
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Filed Under: Venice Tagged With: burano, canals, crafts, glass, islands, lace, murano, torcello, Venice

How to Spend an Un-Touristy Afternoon in Rome

Fri, Sep 3, 2010 By Theo 7 Comments

If you’ve got a drop of Western blood in you, something in Roman history has deeply affected your life. Even if it’s just the fact that all of our languages have their roots in Latin, Rome pulls at our common heartstrings. Rome doesn’t disappoint, either. All the Major Attractions are Major for a reason.

But what if you’re in denial about being a tourist in Rome? What if you just want to get away from the crowds, if only in your head, and go for a stroll? Here’s a list of 5 things to see and do in Rome that aren’t too touristy – or at least you can do them in an un-touristy way!

1) Go to the Spanish Steps: Yes, the Spanish Steps in Rome are a tourist trap and you don’t particularly want to visit a tourist trap. They’re often thronged with tourists (though your best bet is a super-hot sunny afternoon or a cold, rainy day). But whatever the weather, you really do want to walk up this magnificent staircase created in the 18th Century by Francesco Di Sanctis at the behest of Pope Innocent XII. At the foot of the steps on your right is the Keats/Shelley House, so that can be your un-touristy excuse for going there. Proceed to Number Two:

To avoid crowds, try the Spanish Steps on a hot & sunny, or cold & rainy day

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2) Visit the Place Where Keats Died: John Keats was the most romantic of the Romantic Poets, along with Percy Blythe Shelley, also after whom the Keats/Shelley House is named. Keats died in this house at the age of 25. Like James Dean, he died young. While you’re there, grab a copy of Keats’ poetry to stick in your hip pocket and pull out when you’re sipping a cappuccino at the cafe we’ll be visiting shortly.

When you exit the Keats/Shelley Memorial House, you’ll be at the Spanish Steps, so you may as well climb them. Sit down somewhere about the halfway mark and spare a thought for Keats. Unlike James Dean, he didn’t die a spectacular death behind the wheel of a Porsche. He died of Consumption – a slow and painful death. Towards the end, he was unable to take in the sites you’re seeing now.

3) Trinita dei Monti: As you ascend the steps, you might as well take some pictures of the Trinita dei Monti, even though rumor has it that there are more postcards of this beautiful chapel than of any other site in Rome. Originally built in the early 1500s, it is partly the reason why the Steps were built in the first place.

The other part of the reason was to celebrate the peace between France and Italy. France funded the Steps (completed around 1725), which lead to the historically French area surrounding the church. After you’ve had a look around inside, retrace your steps back down the Steps and try to figure out why they call them the Spanish Steps.

Cappuccino with your poetry?

4) Antico Caffe Greco: Now that you’ve got your copy of Keats’ poetry, you won’t be a typical tourist when you enter the Antico Caffe Greco – you’ll be a literati, visiting the cafe where literary giants like Keats, Byron, Goethe and Stendahl hung out, to name just a few.

Ignore the callous tourists, take a seat at the bar and soak up the palpable atmosphere of this marvelously decorated cafe. Built in 1760, it is said to be the third oldest cafe in the world. Everything is pricey here, but the coffee is superb and the pastries are delicious. Now is the time to pull your book of poetry out of your pocket and start reading.

5) Window shop like the wealthy: Because you’re at the Caffe Greco, you’re also on Via dei Condotti, one of the most upmarket streets in Rome. You may as well stroll down this street while you’re in the area, and rub elbows with the fashionistas as you check out the latest from Gucci, Louis Vuitton and Bvlgari.

There, now you’ve just managed to spend a very enjoyable afternoon in one of Rome’s most touristy areas without having to feel like a common tourist. Congratulations!

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When you’re in Rome, of course you want to visit all the major sites – who could miss the Coliseum or St. Peter’s? It’s worth your while to experience some of the lesser-known sights, too. Give yourself a bit more time in an area, so you can absorb the essence of one little corner of Rome. Happy travels!
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Filed Under: Rome Tagged With: caffe, keats, poetry, Rome, shelley, shopping, spanish steps, via dei condotti

Visiting Venice During Carnevale

Fri, Aug 13, 2010 By Theo 5 Comments

You hear a soft chuckle and the swish of a cloak from a dark Venetian alley. A strange inhuman face appears in the light of a streetlamp, casting a sharp-angled shadow. Unmoving and ominous, you cannot read its intent, and a chill of fear cascades down your spine. Then you realize it’s just a partier in a mask – you’re in Venice, Italy for Carnevale!

Exotic masks and costumes abound during Carnevale

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About Carnevale

Venice’s historic and popular carnival (or carnevale) runs during the two weeks leading up to Ash Wednesday, ending the day before, at midnight on Fat Tuesday (also known as “Mardi Gras” or “Shrove Tuesday”).

This medieval festival re-emerged during the 1970′s as a tool to increase interest in Venetian culture, where revelers would don masks of various types to disguise their identity and social class, thereby enabling more egalitarian mingling across social boundaries. Gamblers, criminals and lovers on illicit romantic trysts would exploit the masks for similar anonymity. Over the years, many laws were passed by the government in Venice outlawing the extravagant disguises, to prevent such undesirable mischief. Now, of course, such laws have been lifted to allow the million or so visitors the carnival attracts to enjoy themselves without the threat of arrest for simple clothing violations.

The Masks

Mask-wearing has always been a pervasive part of the lifestyle and festival scene in Venice. Indeed, so frequent was the number and procession of festivals that Venetians could actually spend as much (if not more) time in a mask than without. Such demand for masks meant an entire industry of mask-making sprang up in Venice, where the highly-respected occupation has become guilded, giving rise to their own special laws and a unique position in society. They’re not cheap either. Some of the more expensive papier-mache masks can set a well-heeled partier back several thousand dollars!

Eerie faces in a Venetian mask shop

The Bauta
There are several types of mask; a popular choice is the Bauta, which covers the whole face but protrudes at the bottom to allow the wearer to eat and drink without removing it.

The Columbine
The Columbine (also known as the Columbina or Columbino) is a smaller mask, usually more delicate and ornate, that only covers the eyes and nose, and is mounted atop a baton which is held, or attached to the head via a ribbon or cord.

The Larva (Volto)
This mask is mainly white and full face, and is usually worn with a tricorno hat and cloak. Typically made of a fine wax cloth, these masks are light and more comfortable than the other types, lending themselves to more prolonged carousing, hence their popularity.

Medico Della Peste (The Plague Doctor)
A long-beaked mask, traditionally white with round crystal eye covers which can give a somewhat eerie appearance, especially if worn with the traditional black hat and cloak.

Planning your trip

Nowadays the partying in Venice is centered around street performers and music in St. Mark’s Square, though the costumes and mask-wearing can be seen all over the city. Arts events such as theater and opera abound, and there are grand balls and other events. The schedule changes yearly so it’s best to check the latest info on one of these websites:

Carnevale di Venezia
Portale di Venezia – Carnival

Hotel rooms in Venice get booked up quickly for the carnevale, so it’s a good idea to make reservations well in advance. It may seem like it’s a long time from now, but it’s not too soon to start planning your trip.

Venice, Italy is amply served by two international airports, and these are probably the best way to get to the city. Marco Polo International Airport (British Airways, US Airways, Delta, Air France, KLM) is less than five miles from the city center. Budget airlines like RyanAir and Wizz Air serve the further of the two, Treviso Airport, which is twelve miles distant.

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Carnevale in Venice is certainly one of the special experiences you’ll remember for a lifetime. Venice is enchanting any time of year, but this is something truly remarkable. For some other ideas of things to do there, see What to do in Venice, Italy.
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Filed Under: Events Tagged With: carnevale, celebrations, festivals, Venice

3 Favorite Travel Accessories I Never Go Without

Tue, Aug 10, 2010 By Theo 8 Comments

As a frequent traveler, I’ve made just about all the mistakes a traveler can make. I’ve taken too much luggage and I’ve taken too little. I’ve been bored out of my wits with nothing to do while waiting for a plane or a bus. I’ve been pickpocketed because of my own stupidity, and I’ve even been stuck in a 3rd world country without a passport or money.

However, I’ve learned from my mistakes and now enjoy relatively smooth and hassle-free travel experiences. Spare yourself some of the traveler’s learning curve while I share with you my 3 favorite travel accessories.

1. Money and Documents – Play It Safe

Number One on my list of favorite travel accessories is actually more of a necessity than an accessory. I always take an extra credit card or other cash withdrawal card. This can be in the form of a prepaid credit card, a credit card or any other form of plastic card. The important thing is that it works at an ATM or inside a bank, anywhere in the world.

Bad stuff happens. There are pickpockets in every interesting location in the world, including St. Peter’s Basilica. ATMs eat credit cards for no particular reason. Wallets fall out of pockets when you’re trekking. Purses get left behind at nightclubs at 3am when you’ve had a few too many. The list of possible mishaps is virtually endless.

Money pouches

It is simply foolhardy not to have at least one extra source of cash somewhere else besides on your person when you’re traveling. I learned this the hard way a long time ago. More recently, when an ATM took my credit card and the bank manager wouldn’t give it back to me until he got the OK from my bank by mail, it was a nuisance, but not a nightmare. I simply went back to my hotel room, got my credit card out of the safe and got a cash advance to tide me over until my debit card was replaced. It’s not exactly an accessory, but while we’re on the subject, I also carry a photocopy of my passport with me and stash the original in my hotel safe.

Whatever you do, never carry your passport, credit cards and cash all together. Split them up in different locations, so that even if one is lost or stolen, you’ve got a backup. You can carry enough money for the day in your wallet, and keep more in one of those nifty money belts, or money pouches that hang around your neck, hidden under your clothes. And when you’re staying put in a city, it’s good to use the hotel safe for valuables.

2. MP3 Player

Music to go

Now that we’ve got the most important stuff out of the way, we can move on to Number Two on my list of favorite travel accessories. MP3 players have to be the best invention ever. They are light and compact and hold tons of music, audio books, or videos.

Personally, I find it appalling to see people wandering around the Sistine Chapel bobbing their heads to music when they should be absorbing all the marvelous sights before them. However, there are many times when music is not only appropriate, but therapeutic – like when your flight has been delayed for 8 hours and you’re stuck in an airport, or when your bus breaks down halfway along the Amalfi coast – beautiful scenery, but stuck none the less.

You can get even more mileage out of your iPod(r) or other MP3 player if you’ve got noise reduction headphones (perfect for listening on a noisy airplane), or miniature speakers (for tunes in your hotel room).

3. E-Reader

Books to go

Number Three on my list of favorite accessories is another technological wonder – the E-reader. Years ago, I would have said, “a good book.” As a book lover, I love everything about “real” books, but as a reader, I love the portability of being able to carry the equivalent of dozens of books with me, all in one pocket-sized device. I finally purchased one just to take with me on my travels and I’m glad I did. The Kindle is a well-known model, and there are others available as well.

There are plenty of other things I take with me when I travel, but without an extra credit card, an MP3 player and an E-reader, I feel somewhat bereft. If there’s one thing that’s missing from my list, it’s my digital camera, but I consider that to be practically part of my body. If it’s an accessory to you, then definitely put it on your list. Happy traveling!

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Having the right travel accessories for your trip to Italy can make your travels go a whole lot easier! You can find a good selection at www.AdventurousWench.com
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Filed Under: Travel Accessories Tagged With: accessories, favorite, mp3, tips, travel

Rent an Italy Timeshare for Your Next Vacation

Sat, Jul 24, 2010 By Theo 8 Comments

For those of you who are planning an exciting vacation to beautiful Italy, here’s a tip – think about renting a timeshare from an owner. Maybe you’ll be visiting Rome, or Tuscany – whatever your travel plans, check out timeshare rentals that have been listed by their owners on RedWeek.com.

Why a timeshare instead of a hotel? First, a timeshare rental is often up to 50% cheaper than a hotel, on a per person basis. So, immediately you’ll notice that it’s a great deal for any budget-minded traveler, and in this day and age who isn’t?

Even in a city like Florence, timeshares are available

Second is the issue of space. You can stay in a small, cramped hotel room, or you can relax in spacious accommodations that include real bedrooms, a living room, a dining area, and a fully-equipped kitchen. If you’re traveling with children, having a separate bedroom allows you to put them to bed while the rest of you stay up to watch television, play games or visit.

Also with separate bedrooms, if you are traveling with another couple (a great way to split the cost and save even more on your accommodations), everyone is free to retire for the night or stay up, knowing no one else will be disturbed.

The kitchen is a major money saver. You won’t have to budget for eating every meal out in a cafe or restaurant. If you have children, the kitchen makes it convenient to feed those constantly hungry youngsters. It’s easy to prepare as many meals as you want in your timeshare, especially with the abundance of fresh produce, fish, breads, and delicious cheeses available at the many outdoor markets throughout Italy. Then treat yourselves to a special meal at a special restaurant, knowing you can really afford it.

Staying in a timeshare rental is budget-friendly, convenient, and allows you all to relax in a home-like atmosphere, while you still get all of the services of a hotel such as management on duty, maintenance available, housekeeping and a concierge. You can’t beat timeshare rentals as the best way to vacation, and once you try it you’ll be hooked!

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This is a guest post by Joann Whetstine, who showed me just how many timeshare options there are available in Italy. If you’ve got a travel tip for Italy you’d like to share with our readers, please contact us to discuss guest blogging opportunities.
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Filed Under: Accommodation Tagged With: hotels, rentals, timeshares, tips

Rome, Italy – Quick Guide to Visiting St. Peter’s Basilica

Tue, Jul 6, 2010 By Theo 6 Comments

As one of the world’s most sacred sites and colossal architectural monuments, visiting St. Peter’s Basilica is an awesome experience. It can also be an overwhelming one. What are the most unmissable sights? How do you find your way around? How do you navigate through the crowds of other visitors who flock here every day? Hopefully, this quick guide to visiting St. Peter’s will at least give you a start to what will no doubt be an amazing journey.

St. Peter’s – The Grand Exterior and Piazza

If you want to avoid the crowds, get to St. Peter’s as early in the morning as possible, preferably just before 7am, when the Basilica opens. You want to view the colossal Dome of St. Peter’s with as few distractions as possible, because it is an overwhelming construction. Designed by Michelangelo and completed by Giacomo della Porta, the Dome is over 40 meters (130 feet) in diameter and rises to 120 meters (nearly 400 feet) off the floor.

You arrive first at St. Peter’s Square, the grand piazza in front of the basilica. In the center of the piazza stands the 25.5 meter (80 feet) tall obelisk. This is the oldest artifact on the grounds and dates from 13th Century BC. Egypt. It was originally brought to Rome in the 1st Century and stood in Nero’s Circus until it was moved to St. Peter’s Square in 1585.

Front of St. Peter's, seen from the Piazza

After exploring the piazza, and taking pictures of the facade of St. Peters, you’ll be ready to head inside. Be prepared to go through a security line before you get to the front doors, though – it’s almost like being at the airport. Once you’ve cleared security, you can proceed past the enormous statues of St. Peter and St. Paul that stand in front of the stairs, and enter the Basilica. The church looks big from the outside, but once you get inside, it’s almost overwhelming!

St. Peter’s – The Art-Filled Interior

Inside St. Peter's Basilica

Proceeding into the interior, you will be treated to some of the most magnificent sculptures in history. As you walk towards the right aisle, look for the statue of St. Peter. Until recently, its sculptor was disputed, but it is now generally accepted that Arnolfo di Cambio created this magnificent sculpture in the 13th century. Some still believe that it has much earlier origins, though – as early as the 5th Century.

You will then continue down the right aisle, where you will see one of the most celebrated sculptures ever created – Michelangelo’s Pieta. You will certainly have seen photographs of it in the past, but the real thing is breathtaking.

Amongst all the statues of the saints and apostles, there is one relic that is not a work of art, but the actual remains of Pope John XXIII. The Pope died in 1963, but when his body was exhumed in 2001, it was discovered that his remains had not decayed. They were placed in a glass case and can be viewed in the right transept, beneath the altar of St. Jerome.

You will then come to Bernini’s Baldacchino. This magnificent structure made of 927 tons of bronze is the canopy covering the Papal altar and St. Peter’s relics. There are so many stunning examples of art and architecture in here that it is hard to single out just one, but the Cathedra of St. Peter, designed by Bernini in 1666 is particularly impressive. You will then progress down the left transept and the left aisle before exiting the Basilica.

St. Peter’s – The View from the Dome

Before you leave St. Peters, though, you’ll definitely want to head up to the roof. Some visitors do this first, but it is a wonderful way to finish off your tour. You can either climb the stairs or take an elevator to the first level roof, where you can stand with the statues of saints, and look out over Piazza San Pietro. Then the adventurous can climb the stairs around and around inside the curving dome, to the cupola right at the top. From here, all of Rome is spread out in front of you, and you can also look down into the manicured grounds of the Vatican.

View of the Piazza, the Obelisk, and Rome

You can also walk around part of the inside of the dome, looking down at the tiny visitors in the church below – this gives you a new appreciation for the size of this enormous basilica. Take a moment to try to absorb all the treasures you have just seen.

St. Peter’s Basilica is one of the most visited tourist sites in the world. With over 5 acres of floor space, it doesn’t lose its sense of spaciousness even when there are thousands of visitors inside. However, making that extra effort to visit it early in the morning pays off. You won’t be the only one there, but the lines will be shorter and you will be able to appreciate its wonders more fully.

Filed Under: Rome Tagged With: basilica, church, Rome, st peters, vatican

When Is The Best Time to Go to Florence, Italy?

Mon, Jun 21, 2010 By Theo 10 Comments

If you’re planning a trip to Florence, you’re probably wondering when is be the best time to go. After all, you don’t want to arrive there when it’s cold and raining, if you were hoping to spend your time lingering outside at the sidewalk cafes. So here’s a guide to when it’s the best time to visit Florence!

Summer

A lot of tourists choose summer (June-August) for their vacation trip to Florence, and if you have to plan around school vacation schedules, you might not have much leeway in this choice. If your time is more flexible, though, there are some downsides to summer that you’ll want to consider. Weather-wise this time of year can be hot (up in the 90s Fahrenheit), and it often gets quite humid in Florence, too. Florence is also the most crowded with tourists in the summer. So if you love hot weather, and don’t mind crowds, going to Florence in the summer may be right for you.

Summer crowd outside the duomo in Florence

Autumn

Autumn (September-October) is a very pleasant time to visit Florence. There are less crowds than in the summer, and the weather isn’t too cold (think 68F in mid-October). Autumn is a great time to see the deciduous trees turning color, so if you love nature’s different seasons and fall color, then autumn may be one of the best times for you to visit Florence. If you’re interested in wine and plan to tour the Chianti wine area around Florence, you might be able to see some harvesting in the fall, too.

Winter

Winter (November-February) can be chilly. It’s often rainy, and there is an occasional chance of snow (unlikely but possible). Winter temperatures average about 50F in January. If you’re mostly interested in indoor pursuits, however, you’ll find the museums nicely uncrowded this time of year – a world of difference from the summertime! Because there are so few tourists, you’ll also get to feel a bit more of the real local scene, rather than finding all the streets and restaurants crowded with international vacationers.

Spring

Spring (March-May) is a lovely season to visit. The weather is nice, but not too hot – averaging around 70F in April. Quite a few other people are catching on to the spring option, so the tourists are starting to arrive, though it won’t be quite as crowded as it is in summer. It’s a good time if you want to see flowers blooming, perhaps taking a stroll in the Boboli Garden.

Flowers in the Boboli Gardens, Florence

Attractions

One of the most important tips for any tourist is to do your research in advance, and decide what attractions are on your must see list. Then you can check the website for those attractions. Find out the schedule for your “must see sights”, and make sure whether they are closed at some times of year. It’s possible for museums or restaurants to close down in January, or over Christmas, Easter, or other major holidays. By identifying the places most important to you, you can make sure you don’t run into this disappointment. Spending Christmas in Italy could be a memorable and wonderful vacation, indeed! Just make sure you know what will or won’t be open for you before you book the tickets.

Festivals

If you’re interested in seeing something special, beyond the typical attractions that are there all year, you might want to consider visiting Florence during one of the festivals. A few of the main festivals are:

- Festival of St. John – June 24
- Explosion of the Cart festival – Easter Sunday
- Florence music festival – Spread over 2 months in the summer
- Paper lantern festival – First week in September
- Florence antique festival – Sept-Oct, every other year

If you want to venture out of town a bit, there are also some very cool festivals in smaller towns near Florence, like the Infiorata (Flower Festival) in Pienza.

Planning your trip to Florence

Here’s our recommended plan of attack for figuring out when is the best time to go to Florence:

- Is a particular festival very important to you? If so, plan around that.
- Are you tied to a particular season for school or work schedule reasons? If not, use the season overviews above to narrow down to an approximate window.
- Fine tune your trip dates based on knowing any closure dates for attractions you really care about, and any less important festivals that would be fun to see.

Of course, if you’re visiting other cities on the same Italian vacation, then you’ll want to do the same kind of process for them, so you can optimize all the locations you’ll visit.

And now, you’re ready to start planning your trip to Florence, Italy!

Filed Under: Florence Tagged With: fall, festivals, Florence, seasons, spring, summer, Weather & Time, winter

10 Top Things to Do in Tuscany, Italy

Sat, Jun 5, 2010 By Theo 10 Comments

If you’re planning a trip to Tuscany, then congratulations on making a good choice! Located towards the middle of the country, Tuscany is a gorgeous area of Italy with olive groves and magnificent wild beauty. It also has outstanding ancient towns filled with Renaissance art for you to admire. So what are our top ten things to do in Tuscany?

1. See the Masters In Florence Museums

The Uffizi Gallery is a world famous art museum. Here you can feast your eyes on hundreds of paintings by Renaissance masters. Artists include Giotto, Botticelli, Raphael, Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci. Then head over to the Accademia where you’ll find Michelangelo’s statue of David – one of the most famous sculptures in the world.

2. Go Wine Tasting In Chianti

Just about everyone has heard of Chianti wine, and now you can taste the red wine for yourself from the local vineyards in the region. If you don’t want to drive from vineyard to vineyard, you could go on an organized wine tasting tour. Even if you’re not so keen on wine, it’s a gorgeous area to explore.

Rolling vineyards of the Chianti region

3. Stroll Around Siena

Siena is a well known town dating from medieval times. One of its most popular piazzas is the Piazza del Campo where you can sit down, relax, and enjoy a glass of wine or cup of coffee and indulge in people watching. If you feel energetic, you can climb to the top of the bell tower for breathtaking views of the surrounding area.

4. Visit Lucca

Lucca is a Tuscan town dating from 180BC. Founded by the Romans, there’s a 1900 year old amphitheater to explore and a sixteenth century brick wall that encloses the city center. If you need some exercises, you can walk along the four kilometer long brick wall.

5. Take A Tuscan Cooking Class

If you’d like to know how to make authentic Tuscan dishes, then why not take a cooking class in Tuscany? There are quite a few different cooking schools in the region that offer anything from one day courses to intense week long courses with accommodation included.

6. Count The Tower Houses At San Gimignano

This town is 1,000 years old and is perched on a hill. Only 14 tower houses are left standing today which were a sign of wealth in ancient times. San Gimignano features churches and museums, as well as the Fortress of Montestaffoli.

Leaning tower - famous for its failings

7. Visit The Leaning Tower Of Pisa

You can see for yourself the world famous Leaning Tower of Pisa. The town of Pisa is approximately 50 miles from Florence and is easily reached by train if you don’t have a car. In recent years the tower has undergone restoration work to reduce its lean as it was becoming too pronounced, but you can still see the lean it is famous for.

8. Explore the Maremma Region

The Maremma region is located in south-western Tuscany. This region boasts hills, mountains and the ocean. You can indulge in pleasures such as eating simple Italian food and tasting the wines of this region. Or if you feel like taking a dip, why not go to the thermal baths of Saturnia?

9. Take An Art Class

Be inspired by the same landscape as the Italian masters were when you take a Tuscan art class. Not only can you take a class in painting, but lessons in pottery, sculpture, drawing, ceramics and mosaics are also offered at the various art schools in the region. If you want to be pampered while you learn, you can book an all-inclusive course where meals, activities (as well as lessons) and accommodation are all included.

10. Explore Cortona

If you’ve read Under the Tuscan Sun by Frances Mayes, then you may be familiar with Cortona. The Etruscans first lived here centuries ago and today it’s a town that offers visitors a feast of history and art.

Tuscany is wonderful, and after you visit, you’ll see why Frances Mayes went through all that work to stay here. Enjoy your trip to Tuscany!

Filed Under: Tuscany